In the mountain village of Buscalan, Kalinga, every tap of a thorn against skin tells a story of culture, identity, and tradition. At the center of this centuries-old art is Apo Whang-Od, the world's oldest living traditional tattoo artist, who continues to practice the craft that has made her a global cultural icon.
Today, visitors from across the Philippines and around the world continue to make the journey to Buscalan, not only to receive a traditional tattoo but also to witness a living piece of history.
Born on February 17, 1917, in Buscalan, Apo Whang-Od mastered the traditional hand-tapping tattoo art known as batok while still a teenager. For decades, she preserved and practiced the indigenous tradition, eventually gaining international recognition and drawing thousands of tourists to her remote village.
More than a century after her birth, Whang-Od remains one of Kalinga’s most celebrated cultural treasures.
According to accredited Buscalan tour guide Remy Erminger, the village continues to welcome a steady stream of visitors eager to experience the mambabatok tradition firsthand.
In an interview with regional media on June 1, Erminger shared that Buscalan typically receives more than 100 visitors on weekdays, while tourist arrivals surge during weekends and holidays.
“Pag weekdays nasa 100 or minsan less than 100. Pero pag weekend may araw na pag holiday nasa 500, pero pag hindi naman siya holiday pero weekends rin, nasa 300 or 400 depende po kasi karamihan na guest na pumupunta dito is local…marami rin pong foreigners. Nasa 20 percent lalo na nung nai-feature sa Vogue Magazine si Apo Whang-Od, dumami yung mga foreigner,” Erminger said.
The increase in foreign visitors, she noted, became even more noticeable after Apo Whang-Od gained international attention through major media features, introducing the centuries-old Kalinga tattoo tradition to a global audience.
Yet beyond the growing tourism numbers lies a deeper reality—Apo Whang-Od is already 109 years old.
For Erminger, every visit to Buscalan is an opportunity not only to receive a tattoo but also to witness a rare cultural experience that may not be available forever.
She encouraged tourists and tattoo enthusiasts to make the journey while the legendary artist still actively practices her craft.
“Kung gusto niyo po magpa-tattoo kay Apo Whang-Od, gawin niyo na po ngayon kasi matanda na siya. This is your chance na pumunta, pumunta na kayo kasi malakas pa ang kaniyang mata kasi sabi niya pag hindi na siya makakita, wala nang tattoo picture na lang,” said Erminger.
According to the tour guide, signs of aging have become more apparent, with changes in Whang-Od’s health and physical condition. Despite this, she continues to welcome visitors and carry on the tradition she has dedicated her life to preserving.
The significance of visiting Buscalan extends beyond tourism. Each tattoo serves as a connection to a cultural practice that has survived generations, reflecting the history, values, and artistry of the Kalinga people.
As modern influences continue to reshape communities, Apo Whang-Od remains a living bridge between the past and the present—a symbol of resilience and cultural pride whose work continues to inspire people around the world.
Even amid rising fuel and transportation costs, visitors continue to travel to Buscalan in large numbers, drawn by the chance to meet a cultural icon and become part of a tradition that has endured for centuries.
For many travelers, a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od is more than ink on skin. It is a lasting reminder that some traditions are best experienced while they are still alive—one tap at a time.
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