The great Coffee Misconception: Kalinga coffee is not really ‘Barako’

FEATURE

For generations, many iKalingas have casually referred to their strong local brew as "Barako," and the term has become so common that it is often used as a catch-all name for native coffee served in homes, gatherings, and local eateries across the province.

However, according to Department of Trade and Industry (DTI)-Kalinga Coffee Focal Person Jeffrey Pasikan, the popular label may not be entirely accurate.

Speaking during the Special Management Committee meeting held on June 9 at the New Conference Hall in Bulanao, Pasikan clarified that "Barako" does not simply refer to strong coffee. Instead, “Barako” refers to a specific and much rarer coffee species known as Liberica, which is traditionally cultivated in other parts of the country, particularly Batangas and Cavite.

Kalinga, on the other hand, is known primarily for producing Arabica and Robusta coffee.

According to Pasikan, understanding the distinction is important as Kalinga continues to establish its reputation as one of the country's emerging coffee-producing provinces.

“Although talagang nakasanayan naman na nating tawaging barako ang kape natin, I would just like to clarify the proper term of our coffee…barako is not supposed to be used sa kape na iniinom natin dito sa Kalinga—we can simply call it a native coffee kasi Arabica and Robusta ang pino-produce natin, hindi liberica. Barako is actually a terminology for a variety of coffee na mas ginagamit sa Batangas and Cavite. Kaya tinawag na barako kasi it’s a liberica coffee,” he said.

More Than Just a Strong Cup

The misconception surrounding Barako coffee stems from its reputation for having a bold flavor and strong aroma. Over time, the term became associated with any strong-tasting local coffee, leading many Filipinos—including some in Kalinga—to use the name regardless of the coffee species being consumed.

In reality, Barako is not a brewing style, preparation method, or generic name for strong coffee. It is a local term associated with Liberica coffee, a distinct species that differs from Arabica and Robusta in both characteristics and cultivation.

As Kalinga's coffee industry continues to grow, Pasikan believes correctly identifying the province's coffee varieties is essential in promoting the unique qualities of its products and strengthening its coffee identity.

Coffee as Kalinga's Identity Product

Beyond correcting terminology, Pasikan highlighted the growing significance of coffee in Kalinga's economy and culture.

Known for its highland-grown beans and favorable climate, Kalinga coffee has earned recognition for its quality, aroma, and distinctive flavor profile. Coffee remains one of the province's flagship agricultural products and is widely regarded as an identity product of Kalinga.

The growing popularity of coffee culture in the province is evident in the increasing number of coffee shops and mobile coffee businesses that continue to emerge across Kalinga.

“Coffee is our identity product as a province. Nu agrikos kayo ditoy Tabuk ket puro coffee shop, adda pay dagidiay pop-up stalls en—yun na yung nagiging trend. However, one of the biggest challenges for us is to keep a production that will sustain the raw material needs ng mga negosyong ito. As you all know, some of our coffee raw materials are being supplied through importation—mostly from Vietnam via a Tuguegarao supplier,” he said.

Despite the industry's growth, Pasikan noted that local coffee production still struggles to meet demand. As a result, some businesses source coffee beans from imported supplies, particularly those originating from Vietnam through suppliers based in Tuguegarao City.

What Exactly Is Barako Coffee?

The word "barako" originally refers to a strong male animal, such as a wild boar or bull, symbolizing strength, toughness, and masculinity. Local farmers later adopted the term to describe Liberica coffee because of its bold taste, intense aroma, and robust characteristics.

Unlike Arabica and Robusta, which dominate global coffee production, Liberica is a much rarer species, accounting for only about one to two percent of coffee production worldwide.

Liberica trees are also known for their remarkable size, growing up to 18 meters tall—significantly taller than most coffee species. The Philippines remains one of the few countries that continue to commercially cultivate Liberica, primarily for domestic consumption.

As Kalinga strengthens its position in the Philippine coffee industry, accurately identifying its coffee varieties may seem like a small detail. Yet for coffee advocates and industry stakeholders, it is a crucial step toward preserving the province's unique identity and ensuring that Kalinga coffee is recognized for what it truly is—not Barako, but proudly Arabica and Robusta grown in the highlands of the Cordillera.